The Colossal Collection: Unfinished Beings
Jesse McBrearty's TUNGSTEN presents The Colossal Collection: Unfinished Beings.
This collection draws inspiration from the Golem, a figure from Jewish mythology. Made from clay or mud, the Golem traditionally serves as a protector in times of adversity but is capable of invoking fear once peace is restored. The function of the Golem changes depending on its context. While some see the Golem as a villain, others view it as a victim. The Golem is thus in perpetual limbo, unable to fulfill an ultimate purpose; it's malleable, ever shifting.
Exploring the interplay of contrasting elements, I combine imposing silhouettes with soft textures like quilted fabrics. Inspired by the Golem myth, in which raw materials are transformed into a protective figure through spiritual rituals, I draw a parallel with the architectural process of creating stable structures from materials like cement, clay, and wood. I contrast light with dark and sheer textiles with dense fabrics with the aim of challenging conventional views both physically and metaphysically. I use textiles with distinctive features such as unique quilt patterns, pintucking, and embroidery to explore the myth of the Golem, capturing both its vulnerability and its invincibility, to produce garments that offer the wearer comfort and strength simultaneously.
In my exploration of the Golem's silhouette and its emotional themes, I also reflect on family traditions. It serves as a poignant reminder of the sense of comfort, safety, and protection evoked by the activity of quilting, a tradition passed down from my late paternal grandmother, JoAnne, whose knowledge of quilting I seek to preserve. I also integrate insights from my mother, Hildie, an architect, into the designs. I apply the knowledge she imparted, creating a collection reflecting the adaption of inherited wisdom to new contexts. The silhouettes' bold, sharp lines evoke menace, but the soft quilted fabric offers a protective cocoon for the wearer.